Nau

Switzerland's lakes can sometimes feel a little sea-like, especially if you happen to live on the edge of Lac Léman - Western Europe's largest lake. So it's easy to forget that we're not only land-locked, but also a fair distance from the ocean. As such, our sea-dwelling cuisine must travel a long way to reach our plates. Filet de perche has a place in the hearts of many, but the islander in me yearns for seafood and that salty sea-taste that will never come from a lake fish.

I'd seen pictures of the fresh fish counter at Nau, and since its opening I'd been waiting for a chance to try it out in person. After rebooking three times and cancelling each one, the chance was finally here. The restaurant is smart, polished, and offers a terrace set back enough from the road to give a pleasant al fresco option during the summer months (or winter, if you bring a jacket!). The staff were attentive and welcoming on arrival, and after seating us, were quick to explain the specials and the various catches of the day. The dry-aged beef cuts other tables were being shown looked great, but meat was for another day. Today was seafood. Well - almost!

The menu had enough appealing choice to feel a little dilemma-inducing, which is always a nice thing, as long as one doesn't suffer food envy too severely. And since the seafood option had drawn me in, it would have been wrong not to start with a selection of oysters. Fresh and meaty - it was a winning start, and as an oyster fan, I knew we were in for a treat as things moved on.

For our appetiser, we took the asparagus, freshly grilled to perfection, and a special mention goes to the beef tartare. Served on a bone, the cook came to the table especially to give instructions: dig the spoon in deep through the fresh tartare to the hot, fatty, melted bone marrow waiting beneath. What a combination. Spooned onto a crunchy piece of toast, this was not only a gorgeous bit of comfort food that could easily have suited a winter lunch, but also a huge portion that left me wondering how I was going to manage a main course, let alone dessert.

But the mains were coming, and we'd taken a meagre to share - a fish that had come all the way from Brittany. It arrived to be cut open and served onto our plates tableside - an effect that always makes you feel special. The fish was light and tender, cooked to perfection, and served with a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of salt, and a little lemon should one wish. For sides, we took potatoes and mushrooms with a smoky garlic flavour.

All that was left was dessert. The waitress had a favourite, and that's what we went with - it would have been rude not to. Chocolate in many forms, with a mix of frozen and not-so-frozen berries. It was too much to finish, even split between two, but a great way to end a great meal. I'll certainly be coming back when the next special occasion calls for it.